Day 4, Eating at a Buddhist Memorial Feast in Spiti | Nako, Tabo & Dhankar Monastery to Kaza

This leg of our Flavours of Spiti series begins in the picturesque village of Nako, where we had concluded the previous chapter of our journey Perched at an altitude of nearly 12,000 feet in the Trans-Himalayan region of Himachal Pradesh, Nako is often the first true glimpse travellers get of Spiti's unique landscape and culture. Our morning starts at the tranquil Nako Lake, a small natural lake that sits at the heart of the village. The lake has long been central to village life and remains one of Nako's most cherished landmarks. A short distance away lies the ancient Nako Monastery, a centuries-old Buddhist complex believed to date back to the 11th century. The monastery is known for its traditional mud architecture, ancient murals, and sacred sculptures that have survived the harsh Himalayan climate for generations. Before continuing further into Spiti, we stop for breakfast at Khosh Dhaba, a popular roadside eatery frequented by travellers, bikers, and locals alike. While we opt for a comforting plate of aloo parathas, the dhaba is also known for serving regional favourites such as thukpa and thenthuk. The road then takes us through dramatic mountain landscapes towards Tabo. En route, we pass through Sumdo, the gateway to Spiti Valley. Founded in 996 CE by the great translator Rinchen Zangpo, Tabo Monastery is often referred to as the "Ajanta of the Himalayas" because of its extraordinary collection of ancient murals, sculptures, and sacred artworks. Unlike the grand monasteries that dominate hilltops elsewhere in the region, Tabo appears almost understated from the outside. Yet within its mud walls lies nearly a thousand years of uninterrupted Buddhist history. At Tabo, we are joined by Dechen, who helps us understand its remarkable legacy. We explore the old monastery, learn about its unique mud construction, and discover how these structures have endured for centuries in one of the harshest environments in the world. Dechen also shares insights into the monastery's role as a centre of Buddhist learning, meditation, and spiritual practice. Over the years, the monastery has also hosted important Buddhist gatherings and teachings, including visits by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. One of the most memorable experiences of the day comes when we join monks and local residents for a remembrance feast. The experience was simple yet soulful. Leaving Tabo behind, we continue our journey towards Dhankhar, one of the valley's most dramatic and historically significant settlements. Perched precariously on a rocky spur high above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers, Dhankhar Monastery seems to emerge directly from the mountainside. For centuries, Dhankhar served as the capital of the Spiti Kingdom and was strategically positioned to oversee the valley below. The landscape here is nothing short of spectacular. Towering cliffs, winding river valleys, and vast stretches of rugged terrain combine to create one of the most iconic vistas in Spiti. With the sun gradually descending behind the mountains, we finally make our way to Kaza, the largest settlement and cultural hub of Spiti Valley. After a day filled with ancient monasteries, local food, fascinating stories, and unforgettable landscapes, reaching Kaza feels like arriving at the heart of the valley itself.