How to Remove a Seized O2 Sensor Using an Acetylene Torch

How to replace stuck or seized o2 sensors using an acetylene torch set. I do have another video if you don’t have access to an acetylene torque set. I recently had a misfire on my Dodge Ram, this was followed by a check engine light. A faulty upstream O2 sensor can cause a misfire, drop in performance, air-fuel mixture issues, Rough idle, poor fuel economy, or throttle hesitation. #rust #torch #misfire Amazon Affiliated Links: US Thread chaser: https://amzn.to/3DNBpLo Sensor socket set: https://amzn.to/4gLdhrx Anti-seize: https://amzn.to/3DKANpU Canada Thread chaser: https://amzn.to/426JQeN Sensor socket set: https://amzn.to/3PpETGu Anti-seize: https://amzn.to/40o5nyi UK Thread chaser: https://amzn.to/4j0w9Ex Sensor socket set: https://amzn.to/3WaSlBL Anti-seize: https://amzn.to/3W9QJsf Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -acetylene torque set -tinted safety glasses for torch -ratchet and deep socket -wrench -thread chaser Procedure: First is locating the faulty sensor, thankfully I do have quite a bit of room here to access the sensor. This may not always be the case. Then disconnect the electrical connector. I will show you a couple of different options for removing the sensor. First is using a wrench. Typically I don’t like using the open of the wrench as it can spread or potentially risk stripping the hacks. The box is best when possible. Next is using a torch, the tip of the inner blue flame is the hottest, Heat up the exhaust bung where the sensor screws into. Well it’s still hot, use the wrench to loosen the sensor. Once it starts turning, you should be able to continue. A mixture of rust and carbon buildup will typically cause these sensors to seize up over time. Wait till the exhaust cools down, then use the appropriate sized thread chaser, and clean up the threads in the bun. This will ensure that the new sensor has no problems with installation. Finally install the new sensor and tighten it.  Typically new sensors will come with anti-seize applied to the threads already. If not, then you can apply your own. Then finish up by plugging in the electrical connector. Now moving onto the other side, again is a slightly different process. First was disconnecting the wires. Next was heating up the bung again with the torch. Always be careful with the torch, try to avoid facing it towards the floor of the vehicle or towards any critical components such as brake lines, fuel lines, vacuum lines, or wiring harnesses. If in an extremely tight space, you may consider using a piece of heat steel as a shield. For this I’ll be using a socket. Use wire cutters to cut off the pigtail. Next using a deep socket and ratchet, remove the sensor. Sensor sockets are available, however I don’t own any. Again is chasing those threads to clean them up.  I did notice the surface of the bun was slightly deformed due to rust so it was cleaned up using a file. Do you want to make sure the surface is flat so the sensor can tighten down properly along with its crush washer.  Finally reconnect the electro connector and zip tie those wires off to the side ensuring they are far away from the exhaust and won’t get tangled up in any components.  Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.