Day 3, Sangla to Chitkul (Last Dhaba of India) Nako Road Food Trip l Khab Sangam + Pahado Wali Maggi

Continuing our Flavours of Spiti journey, day 3 takes us from Rakchham to Nako, a route that unfolds through charming Himalayan landscape and satisfying food experiences. Having arrived at Folktales Residency in Rakchham in the previous episode and enjoyed a soulful Himachali dinner prepared by our hosts, we woke up to a crisp mountain morning in the Baspa Valley. The day began with a wholesome local spread featuring tsampa porridge and chilta, simple yet nourishing dishes that have long been a part of life in these mountains. Our next destination was Chitkul, a village that has captured the imagination of travellers for decades. Nestled on the banks of the Baspa River and surrounded by snow-clad peaks, Chitkul is often referred to as the last inhabited village on the old Indo-Tibetan trade route. Beyond its breathtaking setting, the village offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditions, architecture, and way of life that have endured here for generations. While in Chitkul, we visited the revered Mathi Temple, dedicated to the village deity Mathi Devi, whose presence continues to play a central role in the lives of the local community. We also spent time at a peaceful Buddhist temple, reflecting the cultural and spiritual influences that have shaped this region over centuries. No journey through the mountains is complete without food, and our next stop was the iconic Hindustan Ka Akhri Dhaba. Set amidst towering mountains and dramatic valleys, this humble eatery offered a simple yet deeply satisfying meal that perfectly matched the spirit of the journey. From Chitkul, we made our way to Sangla, one of Kinnaur's most picturesque towns. Here, we sampled locally made fruit wine and enjoyed freshly prepared tandoori trout at Saryu Cafe. Raised in the cold, pristine waters of the Himalayas, trout has become one of the region's most celebrated delicacies, and tasting it amidst the very landscape that nurtures it made the experience even more special. As the journey continued, the scenery became increasingly dramatic. Deep gorges, towering cliffs, winding mountain roads, and roaring rivers accompanied us until we reached one of the most spectacular sights in the region—Khab Sangam. This is where the turquoise waters of the Spiti River meet the mighty Sutlej, creating a breathtaking confluence that marks the gateway between Kinnaur and Spiti. With the mountains slowly changing character around us, we continued onward to Nako, a serene high-altitude village perched above the valley. Known for its ancient monasteries, traditional homes, and stunning setting, Nako became our home for the night and the perfect place to pause before venturing deeper into Spiti. If you enjoy our food and travel stories, do like, share, and subscribe to Delhi Food Walks for more journeys across India and beyond. About the host: https://www.instagram.com/anubhav.sapra Also follow us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/delhifoodwalks Twitter: https://twitter.com/delhifoodwalks Instagram: https://instagram.com/delhifoodwalks Design and filmed by Rahul Singh Texts by Swetaleena Nayak