Dr. Sam Ellis

You need to try this if your skincare isn't working

Not seeing results with your current skincare? Save this for your next skincare pivot, and subscribe for more derm skincare tips! Here's the science behind these swaps (and why some actually work even better together): Enlarged pores → try high-strength niacinamide (10–20%): Most studies use 2–5%, but higher concentrations do an even better job slowing down oil production. Great news for oily skin (and you can still use it with salicylic acid for extra pore-clearing power). Brightening & hyperpigmentation → try azelaic acid: Vitamin C blocks one step in the pigment-making process. Azelaic acid blocks multiple (and it also calms inflammation, which is why it works so well for dark spots left behind by pimples, especially in deeper skin tones). Use them together for even better results. Back acne → try adapalene: Benzoyl peroxide kills acne bacteria, adapalene stops pores from clogging in the first place by normalizing how your skin cells shed (plus it’s anti-inflammatory!). No bleached towels either 😅 They can be used together if your skin can handle it. Strawberry arms (KP) → try 10% urea: Lactic acid exfoliates and hydrates the skin’s surface. Urea does that too (but is considered more powerful). It dissolves the keratin plugs in your hair follicles while strengthening your skin barrier. Fine lines → try retinal (retinaldehyde): Your skin has to convert retinol into its active form via two steps before it can work. Retinal only needs one step so it works faster and delivers more of the active molecule, without jumping all the way to prescription-strength irritation. It’s the sweet spot between drugstore retinol and tretinoin. Understanding why an ingredient works helps you build a routine that actually fits your skin.